Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam

Carole wrote another great article, which I have attached below.  This one is on Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.  Thanks Carole.

A big warm Jambo (Hello) to all!

Hope you’re all enjoying our cold Canadian air, because here, it is hot!!! We are trying to acclimatize, but it’s going to take time…

For our first day in Zanzibar, our group had a guided tour of Stonetown, and one quickly understands why it is called that. The buildings, the doors, the facades, it all shows the Arabic, Indian and African architectures. Walls are made of carved stones that surround the fish market (hold your breath!), the fruit & vegetable merchant stands and the colourful fabric shops. But most houses are run down, all in various stages of disrepair. And it is HOT! I know, I’ve already said that, but I’m saying it again… We walk around sweating profusely while the locals – all wrapped up in their many layers – look “as cool as cucumbers”. Go figure!

We went for a group lunch at a restaurant called “Two Tables”. Followed our guide through a narrow back alley to a grungy looking door. He knocked, waited until this old toothless man (turns out he was only 64) unlocked the door, invited us in, asked us to take off our shoes (many of us hesitated, but eventually obliged). He then lead us to the second floor where a room with “two tables” and 24 children sitting in a circle, on the carpet (all his grandchildren) greeted us with smiles, chants and prayers. Then, the food started to arrive, course after course, for over two hours… Spicy Indian cuisine (yikes!), lots of deep-fried choices (double yikes!) and gallons of bottled water later, we rolled back to our hotel with no need whatsoever for supper. What an experience!

Next day on the island brought our first bike ride through busy streets and more heat and humidity. The 12 of us were quite the sight with our fancy bikes and spiffy cycling outfits, but never as much as Max and Valerie on their shiny red Co-Motion tandem. Heads were spinning around and they almost caused a few accidents! Our destination was a spice farm where natives took us on a walking tour which included an amazing variety of spices and fruits. Instead of neat rows like in North America, everything is planted in a big mish-mash: red chilli, turmeric,cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla beans, mango, plantanes, coconut and so much more happily grow side by side.

A ton of information was given – which I’ve already forgotten – except for this: women collect henna to draw beautiful designs on their body (that’s to get married our guide told us). Then they laden the fragrant lang lang in their house to keep their husband home. Should their man have a bit of trouble in bed, they feed them ginger (which acts as viagra); and finally, if women want their child to stop nursing, they simply eat a spice called ho ho which makes the breast milk so spicy hot the baby rejects it. Momin also mentioned that women should not feed ho ho to their men unless they wish for some good “ho ho hot” sex! Anyway, that’s about all I can remember.

Our lunch was on a mat, on the dirt floor of a hut; freshly made from what was just gathered, including coconut juice that was just picked by a young African who climbed bare-footed, high up the trunk to cut 12 coconuts (one for each of us). The whole time, he sang “Hakuna Matata” to warn people below of the imminent crash of coconuts! We all agreed it was our best meal to date.
This morning – our bikes heavily loaded with panniers filled to bursting – we cycled to the ferry; a 90 minute crossing to Dar es Salaam and we are immersed in a dirty city of 4 millions! It is an experience that one must simply agree to take “with a grain of salt”. Safari Hotel (a grand name for our 1 star lodging) gave us all a good chuckle.

One thought on “Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam

  1. Wow, you are having the adventure I wish I was having!! Please ask John how it compares to our trip in China, except for the heat and humidity of course. We had the usual Wednesday morning ride today for coffee and some did Lands End; I’m not there yet but hopeful. Please be safe and enjoy the new experiences, of which you’ll have many (or at least the rest of the group).
    Cheers, Yvonne

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