by Andreas Poulsson
Day 1, Friday July 8
Our group of 16 met at the Fort Steele Campground near Cranbrook, set up camp for the night. Al & Wayne cooked hamburgers and produced and excellent dinner. The rain as well as the mosquitoes held off. A fine evening.
Our group were the following: Our leader, Alan Mclean, Terry Chalmers, Tracy Dixon, Leonard Gal, John Gould, Wayne Hanscom, David Insley, Doris Maron, Doug McIntyre, Yvonne Mclean, Dawn Minett, Andreas Poulsson, Brigitte Relling, Janet Whitehead, Duncan Mclelland, JoJo Mayer.
Day 2, Saturday July 9, Fort Steele to Fernie, 95km
We cooked and wrapped camp and were on our way by 9. From Fort Steele we took a secondary road, #93, a quiet and very pretty road that took us through lovely farmland, Cedar forests and along the Kootenay River for 30km and ended when we reached HWY 3 east to Fernie. The next 60km to Fernie was decidedly less enjoyable as this is a very busy highway and although it had shoulders, these were often rough and narrow with plenty of debris and cracks. In addition to the constant stream of traffic, huge trucks, tractor trailers and semis thundered past us at high speeds and with a deafening roar. We also received our first rain showers, but by the time we reached the Fernie RV resort, the sun came out for the set up of camp. More showers came later. True mountain weather. We were offered very nice facilities with private cubicles that included private sink, toilet and shower facilities. A fine Thai chicken dinner was produced by Janet, Tracy and Dawn. Nice evening, nice place place.
Day 3, Sunday July 10, To Crowsnest Pass Campground, 80km
Woke up to thick fog which soon burnt off. I drove the truck 30km to Sparwood, then met the various cooking teams for shopping as this was the last real shopping until Canmore. We had the usual mix of sun and rain. It is a beautiful part of the route passing through Crowsnest Pass and the Frank Slide. I arrived at the campsite early with David Insley and we managed to empty the truck before the arrival of the cyclists. Again, the evening saw sun, rain, sun, rain.
Day 4, Monday, July 11, To Chain Lakes Camp Ground, 84km
On our way after breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon from 30 eggs and 3 lbs of bacon. We continued on route 3 for just 12km and then turned north on route 22, the Cowboy Trail. The skies were covered in dark cloud but no rain. It is beautiful country, the foothills with huge visibility in all directions. Turning north on 22 was wonderful with the beauty of the country and good riding on good smooth shoulders. We had coffee at 30km and then our luck ran out as the rain began. It became pretty hard going with long uphills, constant rain and strong head winds. The rain did let up about one hour before arrival at the camp site, and we arrived in warm sunshine that lasted just long enough to set up camp before the next dark wet cloud descended on us. Fortunately the camp offered a shelter which was equipped with gas stoves, sinks and running water as well as tables and chairs for everyone, so even though the rain persisted, we were warm and dry inside. The rain continued throughout the night but had the mercy to end just before get up and breakfast when the sun made a brief appearance.
Day 5, Tuesday, July 12, to Ethrington Creek Camp ground, 90km
Away by 8:30 to proceed north 40km on route 22 to Longview for coffee. This was a difficult stretch as the shoulder was narrow and rough and with the rumble strip there was only about a two foot wide path for cycling which required total concentration on riding and never taking eyes off the road ahead. Not great for sightseeing, but then the mountains were covered in cloud anyway. The weather was variable with a bit of rain but by the time we reached Longview the sun appeared and it looked like we might have a nice day.
Leaving Longview in lovely sunshine we turned left on to route 541. Here the shoulder was nice and wide and the country stunning as we approached Kananaskis country. But ahead of us the skies darkened and a strong head wind came up and before long the rain appeared in buckets, and to add further to the challenge, John had a flat. Fixing that in the driving rain and wind made for one of those moments when one wonders what the heck we are doing here. The last 6 kilometres into the campsite was a gravel hilly road. This was all we needed after 84km most of it in rain. And then Al appeared in the truck and took pity on us, meeting us at the turn off and offering a ride those last 6km. Bless him.
Day 6, Wednesday July 13, To Peter Lougheed Prov Park Campsite, 73km
We rode across the Highroad Summit at 7260 ft.; a long climb in steady rain. John had two more flats. It seemed that his tires were worn out. Consequently we got way behind, so far that the truck could not wait for us at the second coffee stop. But JoJo took action. As John and I were huffing it up a long hill in the rain, an oncoming car pulled over and a large friendly man got out, crossed the highway and presented us with a box of cookies. “From JoJo” he said. So JoJo had gone to the trouble of flagging down a car in order to get us some cookies. A lovely and thoughtful gesture to say the least.
After the Summit we had a 20km descent before the turn off to the camp site with was another 10km over several hills. A tough day. And we are realizing that we really have had very poor luck with the weather. Here in the midst of beautiful Kananaskis country we really did not see very much. But everyone was in good spirits and rising to the occasion.
Day 7, Thursday July 14, Rest Day
First day without rain. Most of the group went for a hike. Some relaxed and some fixed tent poles and visited the Information Centre and admired the stuffed animals. At the trading post we met a young man, Matthew, who was on his last day of a six week solo cycle from the Mexican border up along the Continental Divide. He came for dinner and when it was discovered that he was also a bicycle mechanic, a line up was soon formed with various bike problems. Tired as he was, he graciously checked up our bikes.
Day 8, Friday July 15. To Canmore and the Mountain View Motel, 90km
We packed up the camp in light rain. I drove the truck the first 30km to coffee, quite happily as it poured with rain all day with only brief interruptions. At the 60km mark we had reached the Trans Canada HWY and from there failed to find the #1A to Canmore, ending up on a rough gravel road a wet and muddy experience before eventually finding the 1A to Canmore. In Canmore we checked into the very unfriendly Mountainview Motel where they did not offer bike storage and provided only one key per room as well as advising us the a lost key would cost $100. Lovely welcome! The rain persisted and never let up and so we ended up ordering pizzas to the room.
Day 9, Saturday July 16. To Johnson’s Canyon, 49km
Brigitte and I shopped for our dinner and then went on the Johnson Canyon in the truck. The rain continued but we were fortunate to have a building with a big space heating oven which provided much appreciated heat for the cyclists when they arrived wet and hungry.
Day 10, Sunday July 17, Rest Day at Johnson’s Canyon.
After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and pancakes, the group went for hike up the Johnson’s Canyon which is as spectacular as it is crowded, dodging hundreds of tourists and hikers that had emerged from five huge tour buses. The weather had turned friendly and we actually saw some sunshine.
Day 11, Monday July 18. To Canyon Campground, Radium Hot Springs 114km
We woke up to sun and blue skies, cool temps but beautiful. It was so uplifting to see the change in weather. It seemed that we finally got what we came for. A long but very beautiful ride. After a hefty climb to begin with we coasted downhill for about 70km through the most stunning mountain vistas, and then another shorter climb before descending into Radium Hot Springs where it was hot and sunny. Camp was again set up just in time before the arrival of another dark cloud and downpour.
Day 12, Tuesday July 19. To Canal Flats Camp Site, 67km.
We rode through Invermere, and then on to Westside Road which was very scenic with only light traffic and so a welcome change from the busy HWY 93/95 enjoying no rain and warm temps. After 20km or so we were back on the 95 but only for a short distance to a turn off to Columbia Lake Rd which again was quiet and ran high above Columbia Lake with great views, and eventually back to 95 and the Kootenay River Camp Site at Canal Flats.
Day 13 July 20. To Fort Steele and end of trip, 68km.
It was sunny and warm for our last day, and an enjoyable and scenic ride to Fort Steele with a coffee stop at Skookumchuck. It was very hot at the Fort Steele campsite when we packed our cars and said our goodbyes.
It was the end of a both wonderful and challenging experience and this was quite an extraordinary group of people who for some reason were unfailingly positive and cheerful even at the most difficult times. Thank you all and thank you Al for your steady and effective leadership.