A Personal Account by Ken Levine

Pretour Day 1 – Sat., Nov. 12

Finally, after traveling 27 hours from Holly’s Vancouver house to Delhi, India, arriving at our hotel at 3 a.m., 18 ½ hours of actual flight time on 2 crowded flight segments, standing in line for 4 security and customs checks, and enduring a wild bus ride from the Indira Gandhi International Airport to the Hotel Gautam Deluxe in New Delhi, we were in India for the start of the 3 week Cross Canada Cycle Touring Society (CCCTS) Bike tour of Rajasthan and Kerala States.  (Rajasthan is in north India while a domestic flight gets us, the luggage, and bikes to Kerala in the south.)

We had been looking forward to and planning this trip for over a year with the CCCTS which contracted with the Pedaltours Bike Tour Company in New Zealand. Procuring visas, researching and selecting optional side trips including a 4 day “Pretour,” finding the best fares for our roundtrip to Delhi and a one way flight from Cochin, India to Delhi, paying for the trip in installments, reserving bicycles (rather than bringing our own), reading about  the areas we will ride through, coordinating our plans with others on the trip, exchanging  numerous emails with Pedaltours, other participants, and the CCCTS trip leaders (first Chris Hodgins and then Janet Lever) had successfully gotten us to Delhi and Day 1 of the “Pretour.” Adjusting to the 13 ½ hour difference from Vancouver would take getting used to but fortunately, Holly and I did not schedule any tours for today. Rather, we had a very good leisurely breakfast buffet in the hotel and then a walk around the ‘hood with a friend on the trip. Temperatures where in the high 70s so we were off to explore.

On our walk, we had several local residents offer suggestions and even accompany us to some areas in which we were interested. We found the people very friendly and helpful even if the occasional “volunteer” tour guide tried to guide us to a particular store. But none asked for money. We checked out several tourist information centers that not only suggested local places to visit but tried to sell us guided tours and other tourist services. We did not sign up for any service as our Pedaltours itinerary is paid for and complete.

On the way back to the hotel, we passed a street booth staffed by people offering anyone a free lunch of rice, beans, and spicy sauce. We suspected the event was due to a religious Holiday. As we passed, one of the helpers signaled us to come over for a bowl of food. We did and then enjoyed the lunch. We noticed some people going back for seconds and thirds but we found one bowl was enough. After the 3 hours of walking, we relaxed in the room.

Typical of large Asian cities, Delhi traffic was incredibly busy because of the 18 million people living there. It’s also very noisy with constant horns blaring. And don’t forget vehicles are driven on the left side of the road which we must make an extra effort to remember while bike riding. Pedestrians have to take their chances crossing streets as traffic lights are few and far between and pedestrian rights-of-way are non-existent. Even when walking on the sidewalks (when we could), we had to be very careful of broken concrete, trash, merchants set up on the sidewalk, vehicles parked illegally, and construction. It was often easier and safer to walk in the road and take our chances with closely passing vehicles of many descriptions.  (One club member said he got an arm bruise when hit by a side view mirror of a closely passing vehicle while another member said her toe was run over by a bicycle as she walked. Both members are fine.) Most popular vehicles were the 55,000 (and soon to be 100,000) registered three wheeled motorized taxis (motor-rickshaws) and passenger bicycles which were the main mode of transport for tourists and those not owning a motorcycle or small car. Tour buses and City/Private busses were also common. We were glad we would not be cycling in Delhi but rather riding a train out of town. A group happy hour and dinner completed our first day in India.  We thoroughly enjoyed it.

Pretour Day 2 – Sunday, Nov. 13

We started our first formal day with the hotel’s breakfast buffet. Items offered were the same as yesterday: aloo bread (similar to Naan bread but with potato based filling), beans, veggie cutlet, hash browns, cereal, yogurt, toast with jams, tea, coffee, and juice. Then at 9 a.m., we met our Indian guide Bhuvan who would show us New Delhi and Old Delhi today and stay with the group tomorrow. And show us Delhi he did as we did not finish until 6:30 p.m.

We started the sightseeing of India’s capital City with a visit to the famous Red Fort built by a Shah of the Mughal Empire.  (Note: Any errors and omissions in my historical facts and figures are mine alone.) The Mughals were a people who invaded India and ruled for several hundred years. (Those of you interested in further details can Google Mughals and Red Fort. Similarly, if you are interested in the detailed history of the other places we visited today, Google them. I’ll just mention where we went. ) Then, it was off to India Gate, Houses of Parliament, Connaught Place, Humayun’s Tomb, the 81 yard high Qutub Minar Minaret, a thrilling 3 wheeled bicycle rickshaw through the Sunday Chandni Chowk bazaar (our driver and 2 others got lost so six of us had a longer ride then the others), India’s largest Mosque called Jama Masjidm, and Raj Ghat, the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi. (Being Hindu, he was cremated and his ashes scattered in the Ganges River rather than his being buried). In the midst of this 9 ½ hour tour, we had a delicious lunch of traditional India food:  butter chicken, mixed veggies, a spinach dish and a lentil dish, Indian tea, naan bread, rice, and dessert (either creamy ice cream or a ”donut” deep fried with a sauce). It was delicious.

Traffic throughout the City was incredibly busy and noisy. At times, the bus would crawl along at 3 or 4 mph. Our getting into and out of parking spaces took incredible skill and patience and luck. Our rickshaw ride was downright scary and we were uncomfortable due to terrible road conditions. It’s not something either Holly or I would try again. (With 3 of the 6 rickshaws having gotten lost by first going to the wrong location, our guide insisted no one tip the drivers the originally suggested $1 US per person. Holly and I felt badly as our driver worked really hard to pedal us through the crowds and vehicular traffic.)

Simply put, the roads and sidewalks are a sea of humanity. Today was worse than usual according to our guide as it was a Sunday and numerous street markets were set up in front of businesses closed on Sunday. At times, the sidewalk markets spilled into the roadways which slowed traffic even more. One market, Chandni Chowk, stretched 3 kilometers (almost 2 miles) and mainly sold books and clothing. Other markets concentrated on foods from around the world while motorcycle parts and tools of every description made up another market. It was quite the experience and everyone, without exception, was glad to get back to the hotel at 6:30 p.m. and start packing as we leave for Agra and the Taj Mahal tomorrow. Our wakeup call is at 4:15 a.m. so we can be at the main Delhi train station by 5:30 a.m. for our 6:15 a.m. departure to Agra. Good night everyone.

Pretour Day 3, Mon., Nov. 14

We had that 4:15 a.m. wakeup call but both Holly and I had already been up a few hours. We just could not sleep. Maybe we needed further adjustment to the 13 ½ time difference? So, we read, did email, packed some more, showered, and made a simple breakfast in the room (as we would leave the hotel before it served its breakfast buffet).

It was incredible how busy the street became as we approached Bhopal Shatabdi, the main Delhi train station about a 15 minute drive away. The volume of cars and buses and rickshaws was amazing as was the number of people walking the streets to get to the station at 5:30 in the morning. When we got to the station, it was a mob scene. People were walking every which way to get one of the many trains while hundreds of others were sleeping everywhere. I doubt the sleeping people were waiting for a train departure or arrival. It was tough making the long walk from the chartered bus to our train while wheeling our luggage behind us and keeping up with our leader. Not only was it challenging due to the crowds and our unfamiliarity with the station and which track we needed but because there were lots of stairs to climb, curbs to walk over, and escalators to climb as they did not work.  Of course, our train was on Track #1 which was the farthest from the entrance. It was quite the experience and so much more challenging for us than either the NYC or London subways. But we made it to Track #1 in plenty of time to board the train.

We had first class tickets for the express train which entitled us to very comfortable and wide seats and a free breakfast on board. The breakfast was 3 courses with cereal, warm milk, veggie cutlet, bread, jam and butter, tea, and crackers. As usual, bottled water was also provided as we could not safely drink tap water.

Once the train left Delhi, it traveled through fields and farms with the occasional city or town near a station we zoomed by without slowing down. These cities and towns presented the now familiar pattern of being very dirty, debris everywhere, obvious poverty, and houses partially being built or torn down. I could not tell which.  I was surprised to see many people walking along the tracks of trains traveling the opposite direction. Maybe they knew the exact schedule for the trains and thus knew when to get off the tracks? However, amidst the constant haze due to pollution, one beautiful scene we encountered was the rising of a big red sun to the east. Holly and I were sitting on the left side of the train as we traveled south so we got an awesome view of sunrise through the pollution. We made only 1 stop on the 2 ½ hour trip to Agra and arrived on schedule.

A charter bus met us to transport us to the Taj Mahal before we checked in at the hotel. Once again, streets were dirty, construction debris everywhere, trash as far as the eye can see, animals roaming the streets, and more beggars than we saw in Delhi. They seem to hang around tourist sights, transportation centers, and on street corners where traffic lights cause vehicle line ups. We were told by our guide to NEVER give them anything as that only encourages them to beg for more.

Going to the Taj Mahal early in the day and before the hotel check in let us beat the crowds and the heat so the first stop was the magnificent white marble Taj Mahal. It was built as a memorial to the wife of Shah Jehan, emperor of the Mughals. (Google “Taj Mahal” for a history of the Taj.) We spent almost 3 hours there and I have a hundred pictures of the buildings and grounds to prove it.

Then it was time for lunch. Most of us selected a complete fixed price Indian vegetarian meal which turned out to cost a little less than $5, tax and tip included.  Following the very filling meal, we checked in at the hotel and dropped off the luggage. Then, we were back on the bus.

Next stop was a visit to a manufacturer of inlayed marble. We got a demonstration of the technique of grinding down semiprecious stones to fit the etched out patterns in marble similar to the technique used at the Taj Mahal. Also, we got a lesson on the difference between the genuine, top quality marble inlay that particular company makes and sells and the cheap stuff those other guys offer. One interesting note was that the arts of hand grinding the semiprecious stones, etching the marble, designing the patterns, and gluing the parts to the marble are becoming less popular even though the skills have been passed down within families for generations. Seems young people now are more interested in computer technology and tourism than intricate and manual work.  Of course the demonstration was followed by the hard sell to buy inland marble tables and jewelry boxes, rugs, and I forgot what else. Guess I was not paying attention? We resisted the hard sell.

Then, we were off to Fort Agra which was the residence of Shah Jehan before his son imprisoned him there and the subsequent takeover by the British. At the conclusion of that tour, we were ready to head “home” and relax at the hotel and unpack. On the way out of the fort, we were treated to the sight of dozens of monkeys in and around the fort scurrying about and scaring the visitors. The drive back to the hotel only took 15 minutes which Holly and I appreciated as we were pretty tired. We skipped dinner but not happy hour. Pickup tomorrow would be 9 a.m. and I hoped we slept until 8:59 a.m.

Pretour Day 4 – Tues., Nov. 15

This was the last “pretour” day before the official start of the Pedaltours bicycling tour tomorrow afternoon. Tomorrow, we would have a half day tour of Agra but today was a full day of what Agra and its population of 4.3 million had to offer and boy, did we get an eyeful. We witnessed traffic congestion far worse than China, Vietnam, or any City we have ever been in. Not only do you have the usual commercial vehicles, cars, bicycles, pedal driven taxis, and 3 wheeled motorized taxis, but also pedestrians in the streets, horse drawn carriages, cows and water buffalo and goats roaming free, hand carts, and the occasional camel drawn cart. This was all with very few lights and roundabouts and traffic police, all three being mostly ignored.  We saw a fight between drivers and on one very bad intersection, our tour guide and the bus driver’s helper had to get out of our vehicle and block crossing and oncoming traffic so our bus could turn right. (Vehicles drive on the left here, most times.) Even with the two standing in the street literally in danger of being run down, it took several minutes to make the turn.

And what about the street “hawkers” (roving street peddlers) selling jewelry, toys, etc. you ask?  At tourist sites, they attach themselves to you and do not know the meaning of NO. Add to them the beggars young and old who approach you with their hands out, taxi drivers who drive along side of you looking for a fare, nonexistent sidewalks, the constant sound of horns, serious air pollution, trash and construction debris everywhere, and animals grazing on the greenery or in the trash, and you have one interesting walk down any street. As bikers, we are very aware of dogs and the good note here is that they are generally asleep. We noticed only one dog wearing a collar out of dozens of canines.

But Agra had many beautiful and historic sites such as winter and summer palaces (adjacent to each other but constructed differently to provide warmth and coolness, respectively), forts, the world famous Taj Mahal, beautifully decorated memorials and mosques (where you paid someone 20 cents to watch your shoes while you went inside), food stands and street markets everywhere, and all the services a tourist can want. What a contrast between the spectacular and government maintained tourist sites (with varying degrees of security from a simply pat down to metals detectors, armed guards, and at the “Taj” where you can only bring in a still camera and a wallet – nothing else) and the conditions of most Agra streets and roads. Trash collection, street cleaning, construction cleanup, and environmental rules are almost none existent. When you see a merchant sweeping in front of his/her store, you wonder why? I don’t remember seeing one public trash can throughout today’s trip across the City to Fatehpur Sikri, the capital palaces built by the Mogul King Akbar The Great in 1640.

Ftehpur Sikri, a World Heritage Site, consisted of a winter palace, summer palace, treasury building, and other beautifully built stone structures with incredibly inlayed marble. We also saw the mausoleum of Salim Chisty and the Sikandra where the remains of the Moghul Emperor Akbar The Great lie. In between, we had a fixed price lunch of traditional Indian foods. Again, this meal, served family style, was delicious and plentiful. (About $8 plus tip.)

Most of the group went to the Agra ballet this evening but Holly and I used the time to relax, shower, check email, write this report, and pack for our move to the City of Kota tomorrow via a  4 ½ hour train ride in the afternoon. Did I also mention we used used the time this evening for a happy hour?

Weather since we had been in this part of India had been sunny, no rain (special mention for my Vancouver area friends), and about 85 F (30 C) during the day. I didn’t find the air humid but therewas the constant haze from pollution. Evenings were in the low 50s (10 C). We expected this trend to be the same in Rajasthan State, the first half of the official tour. Our trip notes said cycling in Rajasthanwas less strenuous than in Kerala, the second half of the official tour. Distances were shorter and the terrain flatter. I was looking forward to getting on the bike in less populated areas after enduring the madness of Delhi and Agra. We would know how easy the riding would be in 2 days.

Last Pretour Day, Wed., Nov. 16

It was a wild last day in Agra. After our breakfast buffet in the hotel, we went to “Itmad Ud-Daulah or The Baby Taj Mahal.” It is so named as it is much smaller than the original Taj but just as beautiful and adorned. From there, we went to Mehtab Bagh or “Moonnlight Gardens” on the opposite bank from the Taj Mahal. Lunch was at an excellent restaurant featuring a delicious lunch buffet that included tandoori chicken, one of my favorite dishes. Also, we got to rendezvous with the last 4 members of the tour who did not participate on the Pretour. We were now 20 riders strong.

Afterwards, we literally raced in the bus the 60 kms. (36 miles) to Mathura to board our 3:15 p.m. train to Kota and our bicycles. It was a wild ride through Agra, villages, and a toll road with the bus horn constantly blaring to get other vehicles out of the way. We arrived at the station only 6 minutes before the train arrived. Our luggage was rushed from the bus to the train by 10 porters and checked out before we departed.  The India Rail System is electric powered and while the cars are old, they are comfortable even in coach class. Our car was full and I suspected the other 10 to 12 cars in this train were also at full capacity. We left on time. The only negative thing about this experience was the strong bathroom smell as we boarded. But, the smell disappeared once the train started moving and both the India (squat) style and Western (sit) style loos were acceptable.

We relaxed on board for the 4 ½ hours and I got to write this day’s report as the train had electric outlets. Others read, slept, or played cards as I noticed the train traveled through flat farm lands and small towns.  We arrived in Kota and the Railway station there was a smaller version of the Delhi station. It was very crowded. People were sleeping on the sidewalks, 3 wheeled motor-rickshaws and pedal taxis were everywhere, men offered to help with your luggage for a few rupees (1 rupee equals 2 cents) , and there were many sidewalk stands offering foods and other goods.

We were met there by our Rajasthan guide and two 9 passenger vans.  The extra 2 riders, we were now at the full 20 riders, took a cab and met us at a beautiful hotel about a 10 minute ride from the station. We were greeted by hotel and Pedaltour staff with wet wipes, cold drinks, and beautifully flowered garlands of marigolds. After our luggage was taken to our room, which was large and offered a balcony, we met for a brief talk about our next morning’s schedule. Then, we enjoyed a delicious dinner buffet of traditional Indian food. The day ended at 10 p.m. for us and we set our alarms for 6:30 a.m. as we had another meeting at 7 a.m.  But before getting into our King sized bed, we finally dug out our riding clothing and gear.  Tomorrow, we ride. It’s about time as some of the participants, Holly and I included, said they had enough bus rides and walking for a while.

Tour Day 1, Thursday, Nov. 17, Kota to Bijaipur, 30 km (19 miles)

This was the first day of riding after a week on the trip and it was one of adjustments to the original plans.  The planned orientation at 7 a.m. followed by breakfast went according to schedule but the bike setups and adjustments and loading onto the truck took much longer than estimated. So, we left the hotel after a delicious breakfast about 90 minutes late and drove the planned 30 km (19 miles) to the village of Borabus where the bikes were unloaded from the support truck. During the unloading on the side of the road, we had a large audience of local people watching us. Like everywhere we have gone outside Delhi, the locals have been friendly, waving, and curious about the foreigners. We, in turn, take pictures of them, smile and wave, or briefly speak with them if they understand English.

Finally, it was all aboard your rental or personal bike and down the road we went. The 29 km (18 miles) was difficult not so much due to traffic, hills, or getting used to left side of the road driving but to the terrible road conditions. You had to dodge pot holes, rocks, stretches of dirt, mud, puddles, and cattle, goats, and other animals enjoying a snooze or leisurely walk in the road.  You could not take your eyes off the road for more than 2 seconds due to these road hazards. Sometimes, animals would move out of the way and sometimes not. It was wise not to challenge a water buffalo to who has the right-of-way.

We had a short stop at Badoli Village, an ancient site of 9 Temples with much of it still standing. We did another group picture. Then back on the bikes for the remainder of the morning’s ride to Bhainsrorgarh Fort, now a hotel. The road conditions stayed the same and when we arrived for lunch about 2:15 p.m. and way behind schedule, everyone could have used a shower because of the dust and heat. But our morale soared when we saw the setting for lunch on top of a high plateau. From the outside tables set up for us, we could see the valley with fields being worked on, a river, India’s largest nuclear power plant in the far distance, and the villages surrounding Bhainsrorgah. We could also see the long buffet table set up for us, cloth tablecloth and napkins, wonderful place mat settings, and about a dozen food offerings. It did not take us long to line up for a delicious meal we enjoyed while gazing out to the river and beyond.

We were eating lunch when Alex, our accompanying Pedaltours rep from New Zealand, told us we may have to abandon getting back on our bikes and riding the 46 km (28 miles) to Castle Bijaipur after driving another 70 km (42 miles) . We still had a total of 115 km (69 miles) to our evening’s accommodation and if we bused everyone right to the hotel from lunch, it would still take3 ½ hours putting us at Castle Bijaipur around 7 p.m., much later than planned. We would arrive in the dark and have a late dinner.  If we rode, who knows how late we would get there and no way could we ride in the dark.

So, riding was abandoned and we used the 2 vans and 1 car to get to Bilaipur. On the way, we saw a beautiful sunset, fields of many vegetables, and the driving skills of the van drivers. With the road being mostly one lane and in terrible shape, passing other vehicles, motorcycles, and pedestrians from behind and meeting oncoming vehicles took considerable skill and daring. Some people had a tough time watching the action through the front windshield. On one occasion, the driver of our van hit the brakes to avoid hitting a monkey that darted out from somewhere. We missed the monkey which was very lucky for us as the driver said he worships the monkey God and killing a monkey is bad luck. He also said you need 3 things to drive in India: good brakes, a good horn, and good luck.

Apparently we had all three as we arrived safely at the Castle at 7 p.m. and were met by staff placing garlands around our necks while a small, traditional Indian band played.  It was fantastic. So was the happy hour where the owner of the Castle, a well-respected and loved Maharaja, joined us. He was also the uncle of our Indian tour guide Monty. The castle was turned into a hotel in 1990. We asked the Raja a few questions and learned the castle has been in his family for 13 generations and his sons work there. Also, he will be riding with us tomorrow as he is an avid cyclist. Tomorrow would be our day off and we planned to do 42 km (24 miles).

We had another fantastic Indian buffet dinner alongside the hotel’s pool. The table was set up exquisitely and formal. It’s hard to believe but the food and accommodations kept getting better and we were treated like royalty. We were certainly enjoying the trip. There was no need for Alex to worry about today’s change of plans.

 

Friday, Nov. 18, Rest Day, 44 km (27 miles)

This was a day off so we first had a guided walking tour of Bijaipur before getting on our bicycles. We walked the narrow streets and took photos of the villagers who were more than willing to pose or, in the case of a 3 year old boy, who showed us his baby goat. It was interesting for us to see the small shops offering products and also converse with those who understood English. We were very lucky to be invited to stop at one of the elementary schools and watch the children, all in uniform, reciting their morning prayers before splitting into classes based on age. We very much enjoyed some of the students as young as 4 speaking English words and phrase in answer to their teachers’ questions. Some of our group brought little gifts that we gave to the teachers to distribute. Seeing the young India boys and girls eager to learn and so well behaved was a highlight of this trip so far.

Then we got on our bikes and the local Maharaja led us from our hotel, The Bijaipur Castle, through the countryside and villages to see India life in Rajasthan up close and personal. We stopped at some fields the Raja owned and he pointed out the various crops his farms produce. He also answered many questions about Indian life. For a gentleman of such stature (he owns 9 local villages and many acres of fields), he seemed just another temporary CCCTS biker out to enjoy the ride with his new buddies and to show off his Country. When some of the locals saw him, they came over, bowed with hands together, and touched his leg as a sign of respect. I believe in the old days, the people would actually kiss the Raja’s feet.

We stopped at a small village with roadside food stands and visited an active Temple. Then, led by the Raja, we backtracked to the turn-off in the road that took us down to the Panagarh Lake Resort and our lunch site. As before, we were greeted with flowers, roses this time, and an Indian band. Lunch was a delicious vegetarian buffet with fish curry added. All the food was delicious and the service 5 Star.

Then, back up the hill to the main road and back down the road to The Castle Bijaipur giving us 44 km or 27 miles of riding in nice weather and beautiful scenery.  I got back to the Castle about 3:45 p.m. and worked on my email and trip report while Holly relaxed. We chose not to have a dip in the pool. Then, happy hour and dinner and we were ready for bed. It was really a very nice day.

Saturday, Nov. 19, Bijaipur to Udaipur, 36 km (22 miles)

We enjoyed another full day with sunny and hot weather, a morning bike ride to our lunch site, sightseeing around an ancient (but very active and inhabited) fort, a long and wild ride in the van, and 3 delicious buffet meals. Upon leaving The Castle in Bijaipur, we headed north on a country road and saw some new things during our 36 km ride including a large field of camels owned by nomads, many monkeys swinging from trees along the road, a beautiful valley into which we descended, and smoke stacks for large concrete plants in the distance. We stopped to take pictures of the camels and their owners.

 

We also encountered some familiar things such as 3 short but very steep hills, narrow and bad roads, villages with children yelling “good bye” to us, and many farmers’ fields.

We ended our ride in Chittaugarh. The ride sheet said to meet the vans at the end of Chittaugarh before entering this very busy City of 500,000 people. However, the group of 5 in which Holly and I were riding did not see a parked van so we kept going and, with the help of a traffic cop, found the hotel where we were to have lunch. Another small group kept riding up towards the fort before realizing that the visit to the fort was AFTER lunch so they turned around and came down the hill eventually finding the restaurant. After lunch, we enjoyed a 2 ½ hour jeep ride and guided sightseeing walk around India’s largest fort located on a plateau just outside Chittaugarh. The 2 jeeps we used were from World War 2 while the open style, 13 passenger Ford “van” was built in 1939. Once inside the fort, we were told its history and saw the Royal Palace and small city. After the ride down, we all got into our Pedaltour vans for the 2 ½ hour drive to Udaipur, our destination for the day.

At 6:15 p.m., we arrived at the Karohi Haveli Hotel which is a heritage hotel built in 1820. It’s on the shore of Pichola Lake and is centrally located for shopping and sightseeing, both of which we will do tomorrow. But tonight, we had happy hour and dinner on the roof. It was a spectacular view from the roof as you could see the lights of the City in all directions, two Royal Palaces, and the Lake below. The meal was another delicious event and a wonderful way to end the day.

Sunday, Nov. 20, Rest Day, 44 km (28 miles)

We awoke at 5:45 a.m. to the sound of the call to morning prayers. Guess we slept enough? We went upstairs to the roof for our 7 a.m. breakfast and scenic view of the City coming alive. After the buffet, we got in the vans for a short drive out of town where we got our bikes for the 44 km (28 mile) ride to Jhadol and the Safari Resort for lunch.  It was a wonderful ride through many small villages on a narrow, winding, bumpy road where the children, off from school, came out to wave and yell “Bye Bye.”  We had several very steep climbs and with the temperature rising rapidly, we looked forward to the occasional rest stop where the van had bananas, oranges, and water.

Traffic on the road was initially very bad but did improve a little during the tour. When oncoming vehicles were wide or the driver neglected to get way over to his left, we would bail out and get onto the dirt shoulder and then be careful when crossing back onto the “pavement.” The difference in height of the pavement and the dirt shoulder could be as much as 3 inches so maneuvering back onto the road took skill or patience until the two heights were almost similar. Our Indian guide warned us that drivers don’t always yield the right of way or stick to the left so never assume you have the right of way from passing or oncoming vehicles. On a narrow, one lane road such as the one we rode today, staying to the left has no meaning. You just be very careful and hold the handlebars tightly over the 44 km. The last 3 km were even worse.

We got off the country road and got onto a dirt and gravel and rock road that crossed 2 narrow streams. Finally, after 3 ½ hours of hand jarring road and vehicles whizzing by with mere inches of clearance, we were at the Safari Resort for lunch and a SWIM. Yes, the place had a small pool that many of the riders went into to cool down. The setting of the resort was on the bank of a lake nestled in the foothills of the Aravalis Mountains. Lunch was wonderful and so was the return trip as we used the vans to get back to Udaipur. We got back about 3:45 and changed clothing for a 4:15 departure from the hotel.  We were off to tour the local City Palace of the Maharani and the Palace Museum.

The tour was excellent and went into the history of the palace starting with construction in 1559. Additions and changes were made until 1914 by 10 maharanis. The current maharani still lives in the Palace but no longer has political power. We were also treated to the setting up of a very large wedding taking place in the Palace tonight. (We could not attend as our invitations were lost in the mail.)

After the 90 minute tour, we stopped at a local hand craft merchant suggested by our Indian Guide. But after 30 minutes in the 3 story shop, Holly, two riders, and I had enough and made our way back through the busiest streets I have ever seen to the hotel. We relaxed the rest of the evening while the main group went some place for dinner. We have had a full day and just wanted to vegetate out. Maybe a glass of wine will help?

Monday, Nov. 21, Udaipur to Kumbhalgarh, 58 km (36 miles)

In my opinion (and that of many others), this was the best riding day so far even with the heat and steep hills and initial busy traffic. The day started early again with our awakening to the sound of morning prayers somewhere in the City. That was okay since we needed an early wakeup call. Breakfast was at 7 a.m. “up on the roof” and our hotel departure was at 8 a.m. followed by a 40 minute van ride out of Udaipur. The goal was to leave the narrow streets, heavy traffic, and difficult navigation behind and seek a more biker friendly environment in which to ride.

So forty minutes after loading ourselves and the luggage in the vans, we stopped somewhere en route, got out, and started pedaling our bicycles on the “quieter and more scenic” route with “narrow but good surface” roads. (Quotes are from the daily ride sheet.) The road was much better than what we had been used to so we could go a little faster but we still needed to pay close attention to the bumps, broken pavement, animals on the road and shoulder, and especially the oncoming and overtaking traffic. Commercial trucks and buses needed the entire road and more room than passenger vehicles, tractors, and animal drawn carts. As far as animals on the road, we often had to slow down and occasionally stop for the large herds of goats and free roaming cattle. You did not know which way the animal would move so you were very cautious.  But, we still enjoyed the beautiful scenery, large number of villages we passed (with almost every local on the street waving and yelling “Ta-Ta” or Bye-Bye to us).

The terrain for the 4 ½ hours was rolling hills with some climbs being very steep but short. Given the heat factor (I estimate at least 30 C or 86 F), the ascents were a struggle while we enjoyed a cooling breeze going down. Then, it was back up. For part of the way, we rode through a valley with a river and fields.  Given the hills and heat of today’s ride and the longer distance, our Indian Guide Monty and Pedaltours Rep Alex decided to have the 2 vans stop every 8 to 10 km (5 to 6 miles) along the route to allow for regrouping, assuring no one was left behind, refilling our water bottles, and enjoying the oranges and bananas carried in the vans. This was an excellent idea since we consumed lots of water in the heat.  Wherever we stopped, we had an audience of locals. At 1:30 p.m. and after one more climb, we arrived at The Castle Kumbhal Hotel in Kumbhalgarh. Now it was time to quickly shower, change, and head off to lunch.

Lunch was a delicious buffet at which time our guide informed us that a tour of the local fort would start at 4:15 p.m. Holly and most of the others went on the 90 minute tour while I and a few others stayed behind to relax, maybe have a swim in the pool, or do whatever.  I used the time to write this daily log and work on my pictures.

We had a group meeting at 7 p.m. to discuss tomorrow’s ride. Then, we were entertained by an Indian group which included 2 dancers. Part way through the performance, one of the dancers encouraged our group to get up and accompany her for an Indian dance. After the show, we enjoyed a buffet dinner outside in the courtyard. Then it was to sleep as breakfast is 7 a.m. tomorrow.

Tuesday, Nov. 22, Kumbhalgarh to Ranakpur, 53 km (33 miles)

If yesterday’s ride was the best up to Nov. 21, today’s tour was the best up to Nov. 22. By India standards, the roads were good and the traffic light. Add to that beautiful scenery, fantastic down hills, the friendliest people along the way, a good breakfast, delicious lunch buffet, early arrival at a very nice hotel (with swimming pool and refrigerator), perfect weather, and 33 miles of relatively easy riding (if you don’t count the first 10 miles of steep rolling hills). But today’s Sesame Street word is MONKEY. More on that later.

The day started with a 7 a.m. breakfast that was served to us. All our previous breakfasts were buffets but there was plenty of food and seconds were available. Our scheduled 8 a.m. riding departure was a little delayed when a large tour bus filled with Germans backed into our third vehicle, a car, and crushed the corner of a rear door. Fortunately, the rider standing by the door sustained only a small bruise and the door could be closed. (This makes minor traffic accident #3. The first was a sideswiping of our Agra bus by a tractor while the second was an SUV bumping of the rear of our van that resulted in the right quarter panel coming off the bumper. The van driver somehow reattached it.  In both of these cases, our drivers just kept going even though they were both in the right.)

The first 16 km consisted of steep rolling hills which warmed us up quickly enough so that we had to remove the light riding jackets with which most people started out. We passed through many villages and the local people would yell the customary “ta-ta,” “hello,” “namaste,” or goodbye. Even Indians on motorcycles would wave or say some version of hello when they passed. While the road was narrow, winding, and still had bumps, it was “good.” No commercial trucks passed me and the buses I did encounter did not pose a road hazard. You just had to stay all the way to the left.

The herds of goats and families of monkeys did pose a little problem for us especially on the down hills when we had some speed. Our guide warned us about the blind turns we would encounter on one particularly long downhill (maybe 5 km or 3 miles long?). There could be vehicles approaching or animals on the road. What we saw were monkeys on the side of the road and sometimes on the road. On one occasion, a tourist car had stopped and the driver had his hand out feeding the monkeys that would come over. Of course, several monkeys were in the road and around the car. I did not know how the monkeys would react as I passed them so I went very slowly and yelled out “Coming through” because obviously they understood English (and my Brooklyn accent in particular) and would move off the road. Well, they did move aside but only to the shoulder and brick wall lining the shoulder. (Holly has a picture.) We saw other families of monkeys in trees along the road and on private property bordering the road. What was strange was that the monkeys all looked the same, like a little old man.

On the other hand, the herd of goats we encountered on the road had goats of different sizes, colors, breeds, etc. following each other. When I rode by slowly and rang my bell, they moved over to one side. (I did not think they understood English as well as the monkeys so I did not talk to them. Guess I’ll never know. )

We arrived at the Maharani Bagh Resort in Ranakpur at 12:30 p.m. and were greeted by a fellow banging a drum and another staff member clanging a cymbal. We have had this type of greeting several times before and so it must be an Indian custom to welcome guests with lots of noise. We were assigned rooms and led to them by a porter. Our room was very nice with a TV (having English language channels), a fridge (to chill our wine), nice shower, front porch, A/C, and ample space. We could easily stay an extra day here but 1 night is the plan.

Ranakpur is one of the five holiest places of the Jain Community and religion. It is renowned for some of the most magnificently carved Jain Temples with one dating back to 1439. We’ll see one this afternoon.

Lunch was a delicious buffet that featured tomato soup, 8 dishes including 2 meat dishes and 6 veggie ones, dessert, hot tea, fruit, and roti (made fresh by 2 ladies). Roti looks like a tortilla. We shared the outdoor dining area with a group of French Tourists and everyone enjoyed the music a man played on an Indian version of a violin. Then, it was 2 hours of free time, doing laundry, and writing this daily log before meeting everyone at 4 p.m. for a tour of a local Jain Temple.

The Jain Temple we toured is the largest Temple in the Jain religion, a religion practiced by 20 million Indians. Construction was started in 1530 and took 63 years to complete. Except for 2 large bells, each weighing 250 kilograms (550 pounds), everything is carved marble with no cement to attach pieces. It is truly an amazing structure and is still used daily. It is also inhabited by scores of monkeys which roam free looking for handouts from the visitors. At times, they were aggressive (the monkeys, not the visitors) and would grab at a scarf or bag. One grabbed Holly’s scarf but Holly was able to pull it back. When they try to enter a building or really annoy the tourists, the guards yelled at them and threw a stick to scare them off. The Jain religion prohibits hurting or killing any animals so the monkeys are protected. (I assumed the visitors are also.)

Then, back to the hotel for some more free time before our daily briefing, dinner, and calling it a day. Tomorrow, we would head to Jodhpur, the last City we visit in Rajasthan before flying to Kerala State.

Wed., Nov, 23, Ranakpur to Jodhpur, 60 km (37 miles)

Cycling did not get any better than today. After breakfast, we got on our bikes and passed from 6 days of riding HILLY eastern Rajasthan State to FLAT western Rajasthan State. To commemorate going from east to west, the townspeople at the “border” gave us an official greeting. They presented us with garlands of flowers and their well wishes for a safe journey. I doubt any other tourist group got this treatment as our Indian guide arranged it. Maybe he had another uncle in that town?  Many in the town came out to see us. What a treat and Kodak moment.

With good weather, only 60 km of riding on Country roads (selected by our Indian Tour guide’s uncle who accompanied us on his motorcycle), and flat terrain (although very bumpy most of the time and the usual road hazards of the four legged kind), we picked up the pace and arrived at our ending point of cycling by noon. The stopping point was an intersection with a very busy highway that would have been suicide to ride on. Riding in the van for the 3 hours to the Fort in Jodhpur took considerable courage. On the way, we stopped for a really delicious lunch buffet that ended with lemon cake. Back on the highway, we saw a motorcycle with saddle bags containing 5 baby goats and a lamb on the way to market.

We toured the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur before heading to the hotel for the night. The Fort is on the top of a tall mesa with construction started in 1559 and officially ending 350 years later. (Probably a Government contract? Kidding.) It was a magnificent structure that contained the palace of the local Maharajas since the late 1500s. Then we checked in at The Ratan Vilas Hotel, an original Palace built in 1920 by Maharajah Ratan Singhji of Raoti. It was really a very nice hotel in this City of 1 ½ million people.  We had another delicious buffet but this meal was very special. It was not only our time to say goodbye to our Rajasthan Tour Guide Monty, van drivers, truck driver, and mechanic but it was Janet Lever’s birthday. (I would estimate her 28^th birthday.)

We picked up a new Indian guide and drivers for our bike tour of Kerala State starting tomorrow after our 7 hour flight from here to Cochin via Delhi. (The bikes were packed up tonight and will fly on the same noon flight as we do.) We hope our Kerala Guide is as efficient and knowledgeable as Monty who surprised everyone tonight by having a chocolate birthday cake made for Janet’s birthday. We enjoyed the opportunity to share Janet’s birthday with her in India. She took over the leadership of this India trip from the Chris and deserves much credit.

Then, it was time for me to write this log, relax, work on more pictures, and check my email as our room had WiFi. It was a great cycling and touring day and a very busy one. Tomorrow, we would  travel to new adventures in southern India.

Thursday, Nov. 24, Cochin (or Kochi)

Well, after 12 ½ hours of traveling, 3 plane touchdowns, a one hour van ride, and a dozen airport security checks and baggage scans and body scans, we arrived at the Fort Heritage Hotel in Cochin, Kerala State. My first impression of the City on the Arabian Sea was that drivers were not aggressive, they did not use their horns but they diduse turn signals, cows and water buffalo and other animals did not stand or sleep in the streets, there were no piles of trash everywhere, there was much less traffic, roads were better, and I enjoyed the 1 hour drive from the Cochin airport to our hotel.

Our flight departing Jodhpur was delayed 90 minutes and so was our Delhi connection and arrival in Cochin. We finally got to our hotel, checked in, and got to our rooms about 10:45 p.m. And the 24 boxed bicycles did not arrive with us. They were delayed in transit with expected arrival tomorrow afternoon. Consequently, there may be no riding tomorrow. That’s okay as there is no adventure without misadventure. Breakfast will be at 8 a.m. tomorrow so we got to sleep now with visions of (US) Thanksgiving dinner in our heads as some of us skipped dinner. Others ate at midnight in the hotel restaurant. We were not sure about tomorrow’s activities but Alex, our Pedaltours rep, would let us know after breakfast. We knew we needed to move to the next City tomorrow to stay on schedule. Maybe a tour of Cochin, drive to tomorrow’s destination, and a van tour or walk around there? Anyway, it was time for a shower and some sleep.

Friday, Nov. 25, Cochin

The day started with a 30 minute power outage at 6:30 a.m. (not uncommon in Asia) followed by another 30 minute power outage. What was unusual about this power outage was that the only outlet in our hotel room that remained functional was the one with the fridge and my laptop plugged into it. All the lights, fans, TV, and A/C were off. Go explain? But off to breakfast we went at 8 a.m. followed by a discussion of the day’s itinerary.

Since the bikes would not be available until late afternoon (due to their not being put on the same plane as we were on and then being removed from the second plane and held overnight somewhere before being loaded on a third plane), Alex arranged with our Indian guide for a 1 hour tour near the hotel. Cochin is on the Arabian Sea and our hotel is only 2 blocks from the water so we walked to the beach and followed the paved path that led us past fishermen bringing in their nets containing fish. The men were happy to pose for pictures and show us their catch. Then we passed the tourist booths where the locals sold handicrafts, toys, fish, souvenirs, postcards, hats, etc. We were back in the land of the street hawkers. After lots of pictures, a few purchases by some of the riders, and a tour of a very old church, we headed back to the hotel for our 4 hour drive to tonight’s accommodation in Thattekad, the Birds Lagoon Village Resort.

On the way out of Cochin going east towards the Western Ghats Mountains, we saw more traffic than we had seen at 10:30 last night but drivers were still courteous, obeyed rights-of-way and traffic lights, and did not use their vehicle horns. We took many back roads to get to Thattekad and made a few brief stops along the way. The initial differences I noticed between Kerala and Rajasthan States today are that Kerala is a lot more humid (being on the coast and farther south), there are many Christian structures (Kerala being 25% Christian, 25% Muslim, and 50% Hindu), there are often Communist Party of India (CPI) buildings and Flags (“Hammer and Sickle”), roads are better and being improved, terrain is forest like, women are not as covered up as much by clothing, houses in the villages are in better shape than the huts and shacks we saw up north (with some downright palatial), very little trash along the road, hardly any animals roaming the roads, rice fields are common, and there are many plantations of banana trees, tapioca trees, coconut trees, pineapple plants, and rubber trees.

Upon arriving at Birds Lagoon Village Resort, we had a late, 3 p.m. lunch in a beautiful setting. We then checked in, showered, and settled in for a while. The temperature was about 30 C (86 F) but the humidity was very high. The motel room had fans and we hoped to find the remote control for the A/C but were told the rooms were rented without A/C.

The bicycles arrived about 4 p.m. but needed to be unpacked and assembled. No one rode late this afternoon but our riding plans for tomorrow were discussed at a 7 p.m. meeting followed by dinner. Dinner was a mushroom soup, coconut rice, chicken curry, dahl (lentils), a potato dish (and maybe another dish?), 2 types of Indian bread, condiments, plus a sweet dessert. Then, off to watch some TV and get our bike clothes and gear ready for tomorrow’s 7 a.m. breakfast and 8 p.m. departure. The plan is to ride 125 km (76 miles) to Munnar with 1400 meters (4,600 feet) of climbing in the last 30 km (19 miles). We’ll see.

Saturday, Nov. 26, Thattekad to Munnar, 74 km (46 miles)

WHAT A DAY. It started with a delicious breakfast and a good rain but by 8:30 a.m. both were finished and we mounted the bikes for the 125 km ride eastbound towards the Western Ghats Mountains. The ride started very well on flat, wide, good roads but quickly started to become a survival ride as we climbed and climbed the winding roads. The elevation profile on the ride sheet we were given was wrong as it showed 2 small climbs before a final massive ascent but with almost 80 km being flat or a very gradual ascent. (We suspected the profile was for the main road to Munnar and not the scenic, less busy back roads we took.) So, up we went. Some people estimated the grade at between 6% and 9%, a challenge for most cyclists given we were to ride 125 km today with lunch being at 83 km (51 miles).

We ascended up the valley and enjoyed spectacular views, passed large tea plantations, saw beautiful wild flowers and water falls, and passed villages with very friendly people. However, we wondered where a summit might be with a good downhill to give us a rest? There was the occasional flat or downhill for a hundred meters or so but no good downhill. With lunch being at 83 km, those of us riding together wondered how long it would take before we reached the lunch spot, a picnic set up for us along the road. It was already about 1:00 p.m. and we were only about 50 km (31 miles) into the route. There would be 33 more kilometers (21 miles)of climbing before lunch and then another 40 km (25 miles)with a steeper ascent if we did the whole route. Then as we rode, it started raining, the road narrowed, traffic picked up, and we got segments of very bad road. Of course, abandoning the ride and getting in the van was always an option and by the end of lunch, switched to a site 55 km (34 miles) from the beginning (rather than 83 km), 6 of us were in the van. That was about 2 p.m. Another 10 km (6.2 miles) down the road saw 3 more riders enjoy the A/C and dryness of the van while the rest pedaled on uphill with a few more sprinkles and heavier traffic. At lunch, Alex, our Pedaltours rep, said we would all get in the van by 90 km (56 miles) as the grade would really increase and we wanted to get to Munnar before dark.

Traffic increased still more by the 70 km mark (44 miles) as did the incredible mountain views. We saw various signs for Munnar ranging from 8 km (5 miles) to 28 km (17 miles). The 10 people plus Alex (as sweep) still riding were determined to make the 90 km (56 miles) mark. However, we arrived in Munnar at about the 72 km (45 miles) mark and were directed to the Eastend Munnar Hotel. At the 74 km (46 mile) mark, it was quite the surprise when the 2 vans, 2 cargo trucks, 1 car, and riders were directed to the Eastend Munnar Hotel. That was our destination despite the ride sheet with incorrect mileage and hotel name.  I’m sure no one complained the ride was shorter than outlined. However, bicyclists like an accurate map to set their pace and judge their ability to reach the destination. Some of the 7 in the van with Holly and me said if they knew they only had another 20 km (13 miles) or 25 km (16 miles) to pedal (even if uphill), they would have stuck it out as Holly and I would have.  But what was important was that everyone arrived safely, enjoyed the day regardless of how they got to the hotel, and had the best dinner so far on the trip.

After freshening up in our room, Holly, a friend, and I walked around the Munnar shopping district. Spice and tea shops were the most popular stores there and we bought some local tea. Traffic was busy and we explored side streets and walked over the pedestrian Churchill Bridge constructed in 1944 over the river. It looked like there was a new bridge being built alongside to accommodate the heavy foot traffic we saw. Then back to the hotel.

We had a meeting at 7 p.m. to discuss tomorrow’s route. Alex apologized for the misinformation about today’s distance and elevation. He then set out tomorrow’s ride as 50 km (31 miles) of climbing followed by 20 km (13 miles) of downhill and level terrain. Lunch will be another picnic along the way.  Then, it was off to a splendid dinner. Dinner was a buffet with 2 choices of soup, 10 hot dishes, several cold salads, Indian breads, and for dessert, fruit custard and ICE CREAM. What a treat. Any day that ends with ice cream, even if it’s not chocolate, is a good one.

Sunday, Nov. 27, Munnar to Kodaikanal, 76 km (47 miles)

What an incredible day for viewing mountain scenery and being in it at the same time. We summited two mountain passes that offered spectacular views of the valleys below but we had to work very hard and endure the elements for the privilege. It was a long day starting with a great breakfast that offered something new on the buffet: chicken sausages. Of course, we also had the usual cereal, Indian food, toast, tea, and coffee which gave us the energy to start climbing the hills as soon as we left the hotel at 8:30 a.m.

The first climb in a southerly direction was 13 km (8 miles) straight up. We could see the road in the distance. Temperature was comfortable but humid. We passed miles of tea plantations and many photo opportunities. Cars were often pulled over for the tourists to take pictures. It was that beautiful. When we finally summited the pass, we looked back for a breathtaking view of the valley and villages we had passed. It was a busy route but drivers were courteous. Maybe they wanted to stay away from the crazy cyclists? Once we got over the pass, we had 19 km (12 miles) of downhill and level (and a few very short up hills) but that included a good 30 minutes of rain. It was time for jackets. The distant mountains were shrouded in fog and the valley view magnificent. With no reason to find shelter during the rain, as we were soaked within minutes, we kept going for the next climb of 15 km (9 miles) and another summit.

From that summit (I did not see either SUMMIT name or signs telling you that you were at the top), we did a difficult 15 km (9.5 miles) downhill. That descent dried our clothing and us from the earlier soaking. The road had countless switchbacks requiring hard braking, rough road with the occasional severe road damage including some boulders and rocks, and lots of traffic. And don’t forget another rain. However, the views when we stopped to rest our hands were fantastic. When looking back, we saw the high road we had taken coming out of the clouds.

Finally on level ground, we cycled another 14 km (8.5 miles) through villages until we got to our lunch site at someone’s house. The picnic food was sure appreciated as it was 2 p.m. before I and 3 others arrived to eat. Some riders were already eating while a few got there after I did. Of course, while eating, it started to drizzle again. It was just a day of on again and off again rain. Fortunately, the temperature was moderate so no one got cold from the wet and descent. We just got dirty as did the bikes.

After lunch, the group decided that 76 km (47 miles) was enough and we got into the 2 vans and loaded the bikes on the truck except for 2 riders who wanted to push on for an additional 25 km (16 miles) to the main road where they would have to get in the support car due to very heavy traffic. The 2 riders took off and got lost (due to a wrong turn) and needed to call the India guide for a pickup on a road they were not supposed to take.

Meanwhile, the 2 vans with the other riders continued on for the 3 hour drive to Kodaikanal on a very busy, winding, and narrow mountain road. The distance was only 110 km (68 miles) but with the bad road conditions and busy traffic, it took that long. At times, we had to stop to allow oncoming buses to pass us as the road was very narrow. We arrived at the Sterling Valley View Resort in Kodaikanal at 6 p.m. and of course, it was raining again and there was a power failure. So, we waited for a few minutes in the dark (but sheltered) for the electric to come back on and for our luggage to be unloaded from the vans. Once the power came back on, we went to our rooms which were nice. But our room did not have hot water so I had a cold shower and Holly boiled water for a warm bird bath. It was not the reception we had hoped for in this popular hill resort after a long, hard day of riding including 2 passes, rain, and bad road. Again, no adventure without misadventure in Asia.

We had our daily meeting at 7:30 p.m. followed by a wonderful dinner. Tomorrow’s plans are to have breakfast at 7:30 a.m., drive in the vans awhile and then ride. Of course, riding depends on the weather as the group agreed not to start riding in the rain and to have some more free time in the towns in which we stay. Arriving at 5 or 6 p.m. does not give us time to explore or shop. Fortunately, the next accommodation in Kumily is for a 2 night stay so no packing up early and moving on the second day. But tomorrow, we move on. Hopefully, after a good night’s sleep which we deserve.

Monday, Nov. 28, to Kodaikanal to Kumily, 72 km (45 miles)

This was another exceptionally day full of adventure and new sights. After breakfast, we got in the vans for a quick tour of Kodaikanal because last night we saw nothing except darkness and rain when we arrived. Weather was much nicer, albeit a few patches of fog, this morning and stayed that way throughout the day. We now saw beautifully terraced spice fields all around this City of 50,000 residents. The population grows significantly during holiday periods in this resort City. Then, we started our 3 hour drove down the mountain retracing yesterday’s vehicle route. The valley views were spectacular even with the occasional fog. There were several large water falls we photographed from the moving vans. Once down the mountain and into the valley, we passed rice fields, coconut trees, banana trees, sugar cane plantations, grape vines, and many fields growing vegetables.

At noon, we reached the site where the bikes were waiting for us and after 30 minutes of bike adjustments and cleaning, we headed out to Kumily on back roads. The India guides had made sandwiches for us to take along and also gave us cookies, a chocolate bar, oranges, and bananas. We had all the fixing for a picnic which we had at kilometer 25 (mile 16). During today’s ride, we passed dozens of wind turbines and through many villages and the occasional larger town. We followed painted arrows on the road that the guides laid down earlier today. The system worked very well as we had many turns to make and it was not feasible to have a van stationed at each turn.

Some of the roads were pretty tough as there was road damage, mud, traffic, animals in the road, puddles, trash, and pedestrians. (Today reminded me very much of cycling conditions in Rajasthan.) I had one new road hazard today. After 17 days in India, I was chased by my first dog which came out of nowhere in one of the villages. He kept barking and running alongside until I switched to a higher gear and left him behind. While he was pursuing me, townspeople along the road were yelling at him to stop. He only did when he was far behind. Holly and our friend Janet who were right behind me were not bothered by the dog. Go figure. At dinner time, 2 other riders remarked how they were chased by a dog. Maybe the same one?

At about kilometer 55 (mile 34), we turned onto a good highway and picked up the pace. At kilometer 62 (mile 39) we arrived in a town where the traffic was stopped and there were many police. We learned there was a large demonstration at Kumily, our destination for the day, and all traffic was halted for who-knows-how long? But our Indian guide got police approval for us (and the other bicyclists) to continue on. It was a bitter sweet ride as we had 9 km (6 miles) of very steep, winding uphill to accomplish before Kumily but there was no traffic for 5 kilometers (3 miles) as vehicles were being held in both directions. Then, we had very few vehicles pass us. Still, it was nice to have very little traffic on the curvy road.

When we reached Kumily about 5:45 p.m., we were met by a significant traffic jam and people everywhere. We had to get off the bikes. There was a street demonstration going on and a general strike. We saw protestors burning a figure in effigy and yelling. We later learned the demonstration was throughout Kerala State for the Federal Government to replace a dam that was 116 years old but only built to last 50 years. People were worried about the dam cracking or breaking and flooding 3.5 million residents down steam. The Federal Government was reluctant to build a new dam and in fact, increased the water behind the dam. There was also an issue with neighboring Tamil Nadu State wanting to get its fair share of water if a new dam were built. The situation was a little scary as we did not know where our hotel was or even its name. Painted road arrows were supposed to take us right to the hotel but not today. Fortunately, one of our Indian guides was standing on the sidewalk and called to us. He gave us directions to the hotel. We still had to walk past the crowd and all the vehicles waiting to leave the City. It was quite the adventure. That’s democracy in action as India is the largest democracy in the World.

We arrived at the hotel at 6 p.m. Most of the riders were already there. The hotel was pretty nice and a welcomed site. Our vans and luggage arrived 30 minutes later as the road reopened. We had our usual meeting at 7:30 p.m. followed by a wonderful dinner where we ordered ala carte off the menu. (I selected Chinese food that was delicious.) Then, it was back to the room, relaxing, and doing this report. There was still no WiFi at the hotel so my family and friends had to wait for my India updates (and pictures) to be sent from my Netbook. We would have tomorrow off from riding but other activities planned. The general strike would still be on but we would work around it. It was time to hit the sack.

Tuesday, Nov. 29, Rest Day in Kumily

Today was a walking and very educational day. With the entire City’s 200 spice shops plus every other store, restaurant, café, and tourist center closed until 6 p.m. due to the general strike, our daytime activities were limited. But what we did, we enjoyed and found very informative and fascinating. After breakfast, our local guide took us for a 2 km (1 mile) walk to the Angela Spice Farm which also offered elephant rides. On the 1 hour street walk to this organic Farm, the guide showed us various spice and fruit trees. Once at the Farm, we saw and learned a lot. It was almost overwhelming the variety of spices and fruit grown there. In no particular order, we saw and learned about the harvesting of papaya, bananas, coffee (3 kinds), jackfruit, tamarind, avocado, apricot, coconut, cumin, elephant yam, pepper (the King of Spices), pineapple, pomegranate, sweet chili, vanilla (the second most expensive spice after saffron and called the Prince of Spices), cilantro, rubber trees, curry leaf, insulin plant, cardamom, (Princess of Spices), Betel Nut (a drug), allspice (tastes like pepper, cinnamon, ginger, clove, and nutmeg), henna (for the hair), gardenia, black tamarind, cloves, tamarind (“Poor Man’s saffron”), curry, nutmeg, cinnamon, teak wood, and eucalyptus among others I may have missed. We sampled many spices right off the tree or bush. We learned Masala Tea, a group favorite, consists of tea, cardamom, fennel, cinnamon, allspice, star anise, and ginger. We spent 90 minutes there and ended the experience with some people taking a 20 minute elephant ride around the Farm. (Cost was about $7 for the ride.)

From the Spice Farm, we walked to the house of our local guide’s brother. The house was tremendous and had 4 bedrooms for “homestay,” also known as Bed and Breakfast. We were treated to tea, an introduction to the family members, and then a tour of the place. From there, we took the long way back to the hotel while the guide pointed out more interesting things. We got back to our rooms about 1:30 p.m., relaxed, had lunch, and then Holly and I did another walk-about. Just outside the hotel were about a dozen monkeys playing in the street and trees and nearby wall. We watched them for 20 minutes as they were so cute to watch especially the babies. One monkey even stole some peanuts from a nearby vendor. (While all the stores were closed, there were a few vendor food carts selling items.) We headed towards the main entrance to the City where there was a protest yesterday and again today. The City check point gate was closed and cars lined up to leave and enter the City. When 2 passenger cars were allowed to leave the City, the protesters took issue and started to confront the drivers. The cars kept going but the gate was closed again. Holly and I decided to head back to the hotel and relax until 5:45 p.m. when we would meet the group. It was hot, humid, and sunny during the day.

At 5:45 p.m., the group met for the short walk to see a demonstration of traditional Indian martial arts. There were several hundred people who watched the various martial art disciplines and exercises. We all enjoyed the 45 minute show plus the shopping spree afterwards. Most of the stores opened in the evening after being shut during the daytime. We first went into a spice shop suggested by our local guide and he again showed us the various spices but this time, they were bagged and ready to sell. Many people bought there before moving on to some other shops offering handicrafts and clothing. Holly and I browsed at some shops before heading back to the hotel restaurant for dinner.  (On rest days, lunch and dinner were on our own. Breakfasts were always offered by the hotels.) There was some on again, off again rain this whole evening but that did not stop the group’s shopping frenzy. Then Holly spent some time at an internet café to check her email while I started to pack as we leave Kumily, via bicycle, after breakfast tomorrow. We hoped the rain stopped by then. We already gave up on any of the laundry we washed yesterday being dry before tomorrow morning.

Wed., Nov. 30, Kumily to Kumarakom, 84 km (52 miles)

While this is Nov. 30’s daily report, I wrote it on Dec. 1 while cruising the backwater on the houseboat “Lakeshore Palace.” There was no working electric outlet at our hotel Nov. 30 so this was from memory the next day. And there was a lot to tell about Nov. 30. We were told the route was up and down all day with a fantastic downhill towards the end. And wow, was Pedaltours correct. It was a day of working our leg muscles, of endurance, and of using all the cycling skills we could muster.  After breakfast at 8:30, we started a steep 5 km (3 miles) climb on bad road leading out of Kumily. Then, it was about 10 km (6.2 miles) of level, good road followed by another 10 km climb.

The next 35 km (22 miles) was a combination of rolling hills on a very winding road which passed many brightly colored villages. Traffic was moderate and I estimated we had 10 km of downhill, 10 level, and 15 km (9 miles) steep ascent.  Of course, people would wave and yell friendly things at us. Holly and I stopped to watch and photograph some women pick tea leaves. With many square miles of tea plantations, it must be an unending job. Then, we topped out at the summit, took pictures, and started a very steep, winding 17 km (10.5 miles) descent. We stopped every 10 minutes to cool the brake pads and rims. But the views on the way down were magnificent. Once down, we had about 7 km (4.3 miles) of rolling hills to our lunch site and end of pedaling for the day. Holly and I arrived just before 2 p.m. with 8 or 9 people already there. I think most people were happy to end the ride there. It was very hot and humid and climbing the steep grades proved a challenge (at least for me).

We had a traditional India lunch (Thali) that included rice and 7 small cups of toppings plus desert. Most people were hungry and supplemented the meal with the usual beer or coke or other soft drink. Little did we know what we were in for that evening? We drove about 2 hours from the restaurant to get to the day’s destination. On the way, we passed through a local Communist Party of India parade and celebration. One of the party’s officials got elected. We arrived at the hotel about 5 p.m. and experienced the usual short power failures. But, we had hot water for a shower and relatively dry conditions to hang up our 2 groups of laundry: damp and damper. Then, it was off to dinner but we were very short of riders as some people succumbed to stomach problems which we figured were due to lunch. Then, we retired for the evening. (No meeting as Alex, the Pedaltours rep, was one of the people missing in action.)

At breakfast the next morning, some people were still missing and the most popular question was not “How are you?” but “Did you make it through the night?” Out of 20 participants, only 3 did not have stomach problems that evening. (Those three were sick earlier in the trip so NO ONE escaped the dreaded traveler’s ailments.) Holly and I were part of the 17. Most people just had ginger tea and a banana or something else very simple.

Thursday, Dec. 1,    Kumarakom  to House Boat

So, we left off with people being sick and seeking remedies this morning at breakfast time. Fortunately, our guides thought the problem was a 24 hour ailment and would clear up after the usual visits to the loos. They even offered natural solutions which I took. Breakfast was at 8 but there were few takers for the eggs and other items prepared for us. We explained to the cook staff that we were better off skipping what they prepared except for tea and maybe toast and a banana?

Then we had until 11 a.m. to explore the area before checking out but I believe most people, Holly and I included, used the time to get back into bed and wait out the problems or take actions as necessary. So, off we drove at 11:30 a.m. to rendezvous with our house boat for the ride on Lake Vembanad and an overnight on the boat. We arrived at the houseboats, 5 of them as the boats only had 3 rooms each, and were pleasantly surprised to see the very nice accommodations. Each stateroom had a bathroom. (I think that was the first thing people checked as some riders were still not feeling well, me included.  Yip, each bedroom had a bathroom. On the other hand, our boat did not have a hot shower.)

Then it was a slow cruise on Lake Vembanad for about 4 hours. We had not seen our other boats for a while but we assumed our India Guide made all the necessary arrangements as we do not know our destination.  We were offered lunch and fruit and drinks but those on our boat were cautious and only one tried a bit of fruit.  By 3 p.m., local boat time, my fellow sailors felt a lot better as did Holly and I. With electric outlets available and fans blowing on the deck, we read, slept, worked on our notes, observed dozens of other cruising houseboats, relaxed, etc. until dinner time. What a great way it was to end our 3 week India tour as tomorrow is our final riding day back to Cochin and the flights home. It was also a great way to recover from “the ailments.”

At 5 p.m., we were offered the chance to take a smaller boat to a village along the waterway but we just felt like relaxing until dinner time. The other 4 boats showed up a little while later and all the boats tied up to the shore. It was happy hour for those wanting it. Dinner was a traditional Indian meal but we just stuck to Indian bread, bananas, and maybe one spoonful of the veggies and chicken. We were not taking any chances. And by 8 p.m., we were all in our cabins hoping for a good night’s sleep. The crew played CDs or DVDs for an hour or two but with ear plugs in, I got to sleep very fast and enjoyed a much better night than the previous one. Holly did not sleep as well as the A/C was on (and controlled by the crew) so she was cold until I covered the unit with a towel and closed the slats. She also heard the CDs/DVDs for the hour or two. But still, we had a much better night than the previous night.

Friday, Dec. 2, Houseboat at Alleppey to Cochin, 55 km (34 miles)

All rested and feeling better, we awoke at 6:30 a.m. to a beautiful sunrise. The crew brought coffee and tea and we got underway at 8 a.m. Breakfast was on the way back to our point of origination, waiting vans and bicycles, and last cycling day. It was a good day for cycling. No rain and riders feeling almost 100%.

By 8:30, we were finished with breakfast (everyone ate this time) and back at the dock. After a short ride in the van to where the bikes were waiting, we were off at 9:30 for the 57 km (35 miles) to Cochin and our final motel stay. The ride was a level one with only 10 km of bad road to navigate at km 34. The route was along the coast and we stopped at a beach for a few minutes to enjoy the view, have some snacks, and photograph the children who came over to see who these people were on bikes. By 1:30, we had eaten lunch, did the 55 km, and were back at the hotel removing personal gear (like seats) from the rental bikes or else packing up our own bikes. It was very hot and humid but a nice shower got all the road dirt and sweat off.

All cleaned up and partially packed for our 11 a.m. departure from the hotel tomorrow for the long trip home (via Delhi and Beijing), we were treated to a 2 ½ hour tour of Cochin but in a van this time.  Our riding is over in India. We saw some historic sights and ended in a section of the City called Jew Town which has the only synagogue in Cochin (dating from the 1500s) and many shops but we were pretty tired. So back to the hotel we went to relax until our farewell dinner at 7 p.m.

The farewell dinner was at a very nice restaurant on the seashore overlooking Cochin Harbor. Certificates of completion from Pedaltours were handed out with each recipient saying something about the next recipient. Many people were thanked including Alex, the drivers, and guide. By 9 p.m., we were saying goodnight to everyone and goodbye to those we would not see again for a while. Tomorrow’s hotel pickup times were mentioned and ours was 11 a.m. so maybe a little morning time for last minute shopping?  But for tonight, it was early to bed with thoughts of a wonderful trip just finished.

Saturday, Dec. 3

We did some quick shopping this morning and then had the 1 ½ hour drive to the Cochin airport followed by check in. We waited patiently for our departure and safe flights home. While at the airport, I checked today’s local temperature. In this southern part of Kerala State, today’s temperature was 32 C (90 F) with 91% relative humility. It had been that the last few days which made for some very hot riding but that was all part of the wonderful experience. We heard Vancouver was 0 C (32 F) to 4 C (40 F). Maybe a well-deserved rest from cycling for a while was in our future?

Sunday, Dec. 4

Holly and I and 7 others arrived at Vancouver airport at 10:30 a.m. and headed home after the hugs and “See You Soon” farewells.  Other CCCTS members would arrive on different flights or else spend extra time in India or some other temporary destination. I’m sure everyone was glad to get home and enjoy some familiarity, routine, and drinking water from their taps. Undoubtedly, many started planning their next CCCTS trip when their feet hit terra firma. (This is Holly’s and my fourth and final 2011 Tour. Plus, we did a 2011 Hub & Spoke.) In conclusion, the wonderful memories of this 22 day trip, which included 12 days of riding with a total of 686 km (426 miles), will remain long after the hardships are forgotten.

FINAL COMMENTS

There are many people I wish to thank for making this trip and experience possible and truly a success. First there is Chris (CCCTS) who had the idea for an India trip and negotiated the itinerary and cost with Pedaltours. Next is Janet (CCCTS) for taking on tour coordination duties on the trip. Thirdly is Alex (Pedaltours) who endured every mountain climb, rainfall, cold shower, mile of lousy road, and stomach problems the rest of us did while always having a smile, asking how we were doing, and checking logistics for our safety and comfort. As we were his clients (and I’ll add now friends), he always put us first. (However, there was that one time after a very difficult ride when Alex ordered a beer and refused to share it with anyone but we understood.)

Next is Holly, my partner on and off the bike who has stayed with me as I slowly climbed the hills of India and of life. Of course, there are all my Canadian cycling buddies who made this trip extra special and made me laugh when times were tough. Thanks also goes to the many India tour guides, local City tour guides, van drivers, car drivers, truck drivers, and mechanic. They guided us along, taught us so much about India, kept the bottled water and snacks coming, got our bikes and luggage where they belonged, and most importantly, got us safely around India although at times, it was a little scary. And finally, I sincerely thank the people of India who, almost without exception, waved or smiled at us as we passed, yelled greetings in whatever English words they knew (or the Hindi “tata”), welcomed us to their Country, and were as curious about us as we were about them. India is an incredible Country and all the pixels in the Universe cannot accurately or totally describe this fascinating land, culture, and people. I’m glad I did this trip.