Report by Sally Svensson
It’s always exciting starting off on a new tour, with high-spirited companions, twenty in all. It was Sept. 1, Airport Inn, Halifax, our destination Grand Pre, some 100 K “down the road” as native son Les Hudgins would say.
Surviving the gusty, rainy day, an initiation rite, made us very thankful for all the remaining sunny days-well maybe there was the odd spot of fog. At the Evangeline Inn that night, we had the first of many fish chowders (haddock, scallops & lobster) & homemade pies.
On the Evangeline Trail, the sunniest part of Nova Scotia, our route was through the Annapolis Valley, and from Digby to Yarmouth, “the French Shore”. The area offers 400 years of history and many scenic delights starting with Grand Pre (Great Meadow) National Historic Site, commemorating the expulsion of the Acadians starting in 1753.
In the centre of the landscaped gardens, in front of the interpretive centre & church stands the famous bronze statue of Evangeline, the heroine of Longfellow’s epic poem. Unbeknowns to many of us, Martine Donahue, a Vancouver member, is stongly connected to this work of art. Her mother, Pauline Hebert, then a young 20 year old, posed for the statue, the sculptor being Martine’s grandfather, Philippe Hebert. Martine’s uncle Henri Hebert, finished the work when her granfather became ill. The face of the statue expresses two contrasting emotions-one a young, happy Evangeline,-the other a tired, worn woman mourning the loss of her love Gabriel, separated at the expulsion.
We cycled to Wolfville, home of the Acadia Univ. & on to Kingsport for crab rolls (lunch) on the beach of Minas Basin. Marge Johnson befriended a local man with low-cut, scissored rubber boots-his “piss-quicks”. Apparently while tenting, he can make quick exits, fully shod & hence his invention.
A challenging ride followed, partly unpaved-up 2000′ to a view point, charmingly called “the Look Off”.
Next day from New Minas, Kentville to Middleton for lunch. En route rolling hills, headwinds, off the beaten track. We saw older houses with wrap around porches, gingerbread & imaginative paint jobs. By lunch, starvation pains were so acute, some tablemates could not wait for the Lunenburg fishcakes to cook, so quickly gobbled down their banana cream pie. As I watched & learned, I made a decision to do the same next time.
A quick tour of the town’s heritage houses, then double speed to the Bridgetown Motor Inn for a nice cold swim. We all walked to the “End of the Line Pub”-aptly named (old railway station) for more fish chowder, dark ales & the ubiquitous Alexander Keith.
En route to Digby, we stopped at Annapolis Royal & toured the tidal generating station where extreme tides (up to 50 feet) have been harnessed to produce electricity.-the only one in N.America & the world’s largest straight-flow turbine. This is due to the Midas Basin, at the eastern extremity of the Bay of Fundy, having the highest tides on earth. (I sound like a Texan)
Also visited Fort Anne National Historic Site-first built by the French in 1643-with many changes since by the English.
On to Digby on Hwy #1 (scenic) & Hwy. #101 (freeway)-some steep climbs but blew in by 3 pm. to the Siesta Motel. Digby has the largest scallop fleet in the world, Guess what we had for dinner? Bikers were in town enjoying the waterfront rock concert. We milled about the extensive promenade, tide out with an amazing drop to the rocks & sand below.
Day 5-Digby to Yarmouth. Our first stop-a coffee break at Weymouth, a pretty village at the mouth of the Sissiboo River. As with Digby, it had a different character as it was originally populated with United Empire Loyalists.Then to St.Bernard on Hwy #1 beginning the French shore, with outstanding churches, houses flying the Acadian flag, and names like Grosses Coques & signs for “Rappie Pie”-a hearty whole meal of potatoes-moisture removed, replaced with broth & beef. At Church Point, visited St.Mary’s-the largest wooden church in N.America, adjacent to Univ. Sainte-Anne, the cultural centre of the Acadian University.
Lunch at Smuggler’s Cove, a picnic site with a tidal cave said to be used by the rum runners in the Prohibition Era.
A day off in Yarmouth. Many of us took the walking tour of the harbour, cemetery, and heritage district of stately homes. A little tweaking of our bikes, a change of pace, and we were ready for stage 2-the Lighthouse Tour to Halifax.
First stop was Barrington Passage. We followed the shoreline where weathered, shingled buildings perched on the rocky edges of the sea. En route we visited the oldest jail & courthouse from 1830 . Lobster was the common fare for prisoners-poor people’s food Also went off route to visit a reconstructed Acadian Village complete with people clad in homespuns, dried fish in the shed & pigs in the pen (true descendants of the originals). Loved our accomodation in the “Old Schoolhouse” where we had dinner & breakfast. Slept in spacious A-frames.
On to Shelburne-visited the Barrington Knitting Mills-waterproof fishermen’s mitts along with Harris tweeds. Side trip to the Sandhills Prov. Beach-very fine white sand. After Cape Negro-a black community we found the elusive turnoff to the Barnacle Restaurant-a real treat. Shelburne, an old Loyalist town has historical walks along their waterfront. I would recommend the Charlotte Lane restarant-all charm & tasty food.
The cycle to Brooklyn/Liverpool was spectacular along the seaside route, once the fog lifted.Liverpool is noted for unique museums such as the Hank Snow Country Music Centre which drew Jim Burnett. Another museum had an extensive section on bicycles, including one made entirely of wood. Most interesting was a unicycle pedalled around the world by Thomas Stevens carrying only a gun & a blanket. How times have changed! One can learn more about his journey in the book “Around the World on a Pennyfarthing”.
To Lunenburg only 72 K so had time to tour the world heritage site including the rebuilt St.John’s Church which literally rose from the ashes. Lunenburg always brings to mind the sailing ship “The Bluenose” which for 18s years won sailing races over the Americal rivals. We later saw the replica in Halifax.
At breakfast we gave a cheer to David Clark for his birthday. It was a treat having morning lattes in picturesque Mahone Bay. Photos do not do it justice. Rolling to Chester dockside for lunch, we saw the sleek yachts, some of which may have participated in the Augu st “Chester Race Week”-Atlantic Canada’s largest regatta. Stopped to visit the Swiss Air Memorial to the crash of 1998. Local residents were involved in the recovery of bodies.
At the long-awaited Boutilier’s Point, we ordered in pizza then slept like the just. Just in time.
Our last big day to Halifax, but first to Peggy’s Cove. A great photo-op spot. Fun sitting around having our coffees amidst busloads of tourists. On our way again we were met with incredible headwinds & hills. Suddenly there was a scream ahead, & in slow motion Marilyn came down, chain off, shoe stuck to pedal. Dusted off by Roger, Marilyn then led the way, bruised but not defeated.
In Halifax, the whole gang celebrated at McKelvies for dinner. Glenda & Sandy were leaving the next day.Our day off we visited Pier 21, where between 1928 & 1971, more than one million immigrants arrived in Canada. Betty D. went to the research dept. on the 4th floor giving the date-July 4, 1966 of her arrival on the Hanseatic cruiser & up came photos of the ship with lots of details. I’m sure that brought back lots of memories being on her own with three kids and a dog. Lots to see & do. Of note the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and the Art Gallery with a special section for Maud Lewis.
Next day, the ferry to Dartmouth across the harbour, a rural route along a cottage-dotted lake, then 9K of noisy freeway -soon done-to the Airport Inn. Another last happy hour and a last dinner with farewells to early risers.
The whole trip was exceptional due to Dan’s careful, experienced planning, and his professional,detailed, large coloured maps.Also the chemistry of the group-all different and all blending-with good humour and support when needed. I enjoyed having a new roommate each night amongst the sing les-a good idea.
Special thanks to Ken & Annette Meleskie for allowing us the use of their car as a support vehicle. Also to Sharon Schnare who joined us in Yarmouth, while recovering from pneumonia, & cheerfully drove the Lighthouse route to Halifax.
Thank you, Dan-another great tour and thanks to all who participated.
A Toast To Fellow Cyclists
May you always have trips to share, Health to spare And friends that care.
Sally Svensson