McMenamins Portland Trip Report

June 19 – 26, 2017 (by Helen Koziol)

On Monday afternoon, June 19th, 2017, we arrived at a truly unique destination – the McMenamins “Edgefield, located a short drive from Portland. This is an historic Georgian-revival style Manor with numerous smaller buildings on 30 ha (74 acres). It was built in 1911 and functioned for several decades as a “poor farm”. From 1962-82 it was a nursing home then it sat empty until Mike and Brian McMenamin transformed it into the funky establishment it is today.

   

Tues: Cycle Day One – Troutdale to Multnomah Falls (out and back) – 60 km

The 60 km ride with a substantial elevation gain started with a long ascent out of Troutdale. Fantastic views of the Columbia River Gorge were obtained at the Vista House then we enjoyed a long descent through a shady forested section passing numerous spectacular waterfalls along the way. 

The Multnomah Waterfall at the bottom was so tall you couldn’t capture all of its splendour in a single photograph. Unfortunately its fame and beauty brought crowds of tourists (most travelling in cars) which created a lot of congestion on the road near the parking lot. The climb back up the hill took between 45 minutes and 1 hour and was mostly ridden in a very low gear. The 240 m climb was “almost enjoyable” given it was spread out over 4.8 km. After reaching the Vista House for a 2nd time, we cruised (mostly downhill) to return to Troutdale. Several of us donned robes and wound through the green pathway to soak in the outdoor river-like spa.

Our group gave the locally made McMenamins beers great reviews and we learned that filling the mason jars in the rooms was a cheaper way to drink beer. Numerous cyclists used the very large serving of chicken and dumplings from a nearby restaurant to replace all the calories burned up during the day (and then some).

   

Wed: Cycle Day Two – Troutdale to Forest Grove (88.8 km)

The weather was again hot and sunny so the group started cycling at 8:30 AM. We arrived 7 hours later at the McMenamins “Grand Lodge” in Forest Grove after a very long 88.8 km ride with 770 m elevation gain (total for the day).  Initially we cycled on a designated pathway beside the impressive Columbia River. We then cycled cautiously through some busy industrial streets with numerous semi-trucks. We passed by some “down and out” type of homes that were recreational vehicles in a previous life. We then enjoyed (?) the 300 m climb up through the lovely Forest Park (one of the largest urban forests in the U.S. @ 2,100 ha) on a hard unpaved trail nestled in the trees. Emerging from the peace of the forest we soon left the city and found lovely undulating farmland and quieter roads. We cycled through several small historic centres with interesting downtowns then arrived at our destination. The magical Grand Lodge was another truly unique McMenamins experience. This 77 room establishment was built in 1922 to provide “permanence, security and dignity” for members of the Masonic Lodges of Oregon. In 1999 the Masons moved out and the McMenamins seized the opportunity to buy it. In the magical/mystical attic we found 2 secret rooms. Our group debriefed in the sunny mature gardens and again enjoyed more of the McMenamins beverages.

Thur : Cycle Day Three – Forest Grove to McMinnville (53 km)

The shorter distance day allowed us to start the ride later. At 9:30 am we began enjoying the rolling ride through agricultural lands offering views of vineyards, traditional grain crops, orchards and an interesting array of livestock. Occasional pockets of leafy shade were appreciated on this hot and sunny ride. At the tiny community of Carlton we enjoyed coffee and baked goods before finishing the route. Tail winds out of Carlton made for a fast trip to McMinnville so the 53 km ride was completed in a total of 4 hours. Another interesting McMenamins hotel (built in 1905) welcomed us – the vintage Hotel Oregon.

The McMenamins’ “experience like none other” began in 1974 and has grown into 67 locations (lodgings, breweries and pubs). To quote the Northwest Travel Magazine: “It’s as if you’ve stepped into someone else’s imagination – or, more accurately, personality. And it just feels good”. Each McMenamins property has its own distinct personality and staying in them has allowed us to experience firsthand what the history of the area would have been like so many years ago…

Fri : Rest Day with Optional Cycle Trip

The air conditioned shops offered us a reprieve from the heat. Most members chose to enjoy our day off however several cyclists completed the short optional route through Linfield College and visited the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum.

Sat : Cycle Day Four – McMinnville to Portland (85 km)

Had an early start (7 am) because hot temperatures were expected. The morning ride was cruising along the enjoyable rolling country roads however the full-on sun and the hot (37 C/99 F) temperature became quite exhausting for the 2nd half which was mostly on city streets. Cold beverages were a priority once we arrived at the downtown McMenamins’ Crystal Hotel. It was built in 1911 to provide much needed lodging because the city grew rapidly after it held the 1905 World Fair. The nearby shops were interesting but expensive for Canadians. At twilight several thousand cyclists participated in Portland’s World Naked Bike Ride (7 mile route). Organizers use the “bare as you dare” ride to protest the world’s dependency on oil. Not sure if any CCCTS members participated…

Sun : Optional Cycle Day Five – Circle Tour Into Vancouver, Wash. (55 km)

13 cyclists headed off on Sunday’s optional ride. The route crossed the mighty Columbia River taking us to Vancouver, Washington where we cycled through the reconstructed site of Fort Vancouver. The truly enjoyable parts of this ride consisted of parks, pathways, cycling along the river and crossing over exceptionally long bridges (on one leg we were safely sandwiched in the middle of 8 lanes of traffic) as well as through numerous well-kept neighbourhoods. The impressive upscale homes made it feel like you were cycling through 4 decades of Architectural Digest. Unfortunately we also experienced what were “homes” for the all too numerous homeless. The ride which started at 8:30 AM returned to the hotel at 2 PM – longer than expected (lots flat tires) but also hotter than desired at over 100 F (38 C)!

A street altercation turned UGLY as we headed out for supper. Several from our group were part of the crowd that witnessed the attack. One CCCTS member assisted in subduing an assailant. Dozens of emergency personnel quickly arrived. The 22 year old male who was stabbed was rushed to hospital in serious condition. Our entire shocked group then gathered for a most memorable final celebration at Ringlers (wrapped inside “Police Line – Do Not Cross”) yellow tape.

Mon: Cycle Day Six – Portland to Troutdale (35 km)

Dick and Elaine saved some of “the best for last”. Our final day was significantly cooler (24 C) with much appreciated cloud cover. Our ride started at 8:30 AM with a gentle rain shower that ended a few minutes into the ride. The busy Portland streets were quickly forgotten as we crossed the river and pleasurably rode on flat, designated cycling paths (the Springwater Corridor and the Gresham-Fairview Trail). Two hours later we were back where our trip started at The Edgefield in Troutdale. 

The 22 CCCTS cyclists formed a strong bond over the 8 days spent together and it was hard to bid farewell. Hopefully our paths will cross again!!! Dick and Elaine Carpenter planned this interesting trip and perfected all the logistics. After organizing it for their 3rd time, someone, somewhere is needed to try and fill their (cycling) shoes and offer this cycling package again in the not too distant future!

Here’s few more miscellaneous photos from our trip (in random order):