Albania Trip Report
This first CCCTS Albania UNESCO Tour, capably led by CCCTS member Janet Whitehead working with Cycle Albania, ran from 29 August-11 September 2025.
There were 14 hotel nights with 8 days of riding.
Of the 20 participants, 13 were on E-bikes and 7 used pedal power.
Total distance ridden was 438 kilometers with a total elevation gain
of 5606 m. The longest continuous downhill was 14 km.
Those are the facts, what follows are the feelings – a compilation of participants’ highlights and favorite memories. We think you’ll agree that it was a trip well worth repeating!
Our adventure began in Tirana, Albania’s lively capital, where recent unconventional architecture contrasted with older Communist-style buildings – a clue to the country’s difficult modern history. Visits to the vine-covered “House of Leaves”, Albania’s Museum of Secret Surveillance during WWII and the Cold War years, were eye-opening. At the Women’s Museum, learning about the lives of women during that time fascinated some. A day on our own allowed us to better understand this unique country.
So, from the start, it was clear that we were in for something special — not just a cycling trip, but a journey through rich history, dramatic landscapes, and the warmth of a country that welcomed us with open arms (and the occasional hatchet).
We pedaled through a land of contrasts — from lakes to rugged mountains and then the sparkling coastline
from medieval castles to sea views to bustling towns
and through remote rural areas where shepherds and their loyal dogs tended herds of goats, cows, and sheep along (and on!) the road. Every day offered a new terrain, a new view, and a reason to stop and simply take it all in.
An unforgettable moment came on a visit to the 5th-century church in Butrint. As our guide explained the intricate mosaic motif, interwoven circles surrounded by ivy, she bent down and picked up a dried ivy leaf lying beside us — a small, serendipitous gesture that felt like a message from the past, echoing through time.
We especially loved the mountains, both for their beauty and
their challenge. Long, winding descents often brought us to a halt, not for rest, but to admire jaw-dropping vistas. But first there were the climbs, including the legendary Llogara Pass — 1658 meters over 63 km, in the heat of the day. On that climb, one of us was joined by a much younger Albanian cyclist, training for a race. The two rode together for a while, sharing stories, effort, and a passion that transcended language. Near the summit the young cyclist turned back toward his village, but not before a final farewell — a simple, human connection on a hard-earned road. 
Around the midpoint of the trip, we arrived at Coli guesthouse near Përmet, and were greeted in the most Albanian way possible — with a warm smile and a hatchet wielded by our host as she prepared that night’s chicken. The rustic charm of Coli quickly won us over.
After an entertaining trip to natural hot pools the farm table became our base — for cold beers and a home-cooked dinner, all enjoyed under a canopy of fig trees and squash vines beside ancient stone fountains. It also became the stage for Julian’s bar tricks sparking belly laughs and tears in equal measure.
And then there were the evenings — like the one from the guesthouse balcony, where we looked down a peaceful valley at dusk and a far-off mountain glowing as if sprinkled with snow. A quiet, perfect end to another day of effort and beauty.
As we cycled on, we visited Gjirokastër, a UNESCO hilltop town, just as a storm rolled in. Against the dramatic black sky, the red Albanian flag with its fierce black double-headed eagle stood defiant above the castle, symbolic of the country’s fight for democratic independence from a brutal communist past — a postcard image we’ll not forget. 
Through it all, our trip was guided with care and dedication by Julian and our ever-reliable driver, Bato. They made sure the tour ran smoothly, but more than that, they gave the trip its rhythm and soul.
By the end, we were left with sun-kissed skin, tired legs, and full hearts. We had tackled big hills, swum in the Adriatic, celebrated with cheap beers, lingered over meals that lasted forever and shared stories. We discovered not just a beautiful country, but wonderful people — generous, curious, and proud of their homeland.
This wasn’t just about cycling. It was
about connection
with the land,
the past,
the people,
Albania, you were unforgettable!